Is Irish Curls a Real Hair Type? Stylists Break Down the Science and Myths
To understand where this viral hybrid sits in actual science, cosmetologists rely on the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. This framework divides hair into four primary categories, running from Type 1 (straight) to Type 4 (coily), with sub-letters A through C denoting the diameter of the pattern.
Most people who identify with the "Irish curl" label fall directly into the Type 2 wavy hair category, often displaying a blend of 2A waves on top and 2C or 3A curls underneath.
| Hair Pattern Type | Follicle & Shaft Shape | Typical Scalp Behavior | Common Diagnostic Error |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type 1 (Straight) | Round follicle; cylindrical hair shaft | Sebum travels easily from root to tip; reflects light evenly | Treated with heavy butters, causing greasy roots within 12, 24 hours |
| Type 2 / Hybrid ("Irish") | Mixed round-oval follicles; variable cross-sections | Flat, limp canopy with distinct S-waves or ringlets beneath | Brushed dry like straight hair, creating chronic, puffing frizz |
| Type 3 (Curly) | Elliptical follicle; ribbon-like, twisting shaft | Defined spiral rings throughout; natural oil struggles to coat ends | Over-cleansed with harsh surfactants, stripping moisture |
Treating mixed-texture hair as purely Type 3 curly hair leads to disaster. Dense, co-washing conditioners and heavy shea-based creams collapse fine European hair textures, leaving the top layer greasy and stringy while doing nothing to define the underlayer.
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